ŽIŽKOV: PRAGUE WITH A LOCAL SOUL

Since year 2000, Prague’s Žižkov has been our home. Often called the city’s liveliest district, it is famous for its pub culture and is rumored to have more pubs per square kilometer than any neighborhood in Europe, perhaps even the world. But Žižkov is much more than a place for a night out. With its hilltop views, local cafés, independent venues, green spaces, and unmistakably Prague atmosphere, it is well worth exploring if you want to experience the city beyond the usual tourist routes. Here is a taste of what makes Žižkov such a great neighborhood.

THE HISTORY

For many years, Žižkov had a reputation as a gritty, working-class neighborhood, and in many ways that still rings true. Its cobblestone streets are far from spotless, and you can still find plenty of old-school pubs mostly frequented by hard-drinking locals.

The neighborhood is named after the Hussite general Jan Žižka, whose enormous equestrian statue stands proudly at the top of Vítkov Hill. The 14th–15th-century military leader was known as a brilliant tactician and famously wore a patch over one eye after losing it in battle.

Beside the statue stands the massive National Monument, which now houses exhibitions on Czech history and once contained the mausoleum of Communist-era president Klement Gottwald. You can easily get there from our garden — it is about a 10-minute walk through the park. The hill is also one of the best places in the area to watch the sunset, so do not forget to bring a beer with you.

ŽIŽKOV TODAY

Žižkov has long been a favorite haunt of students, artists, musicians, and other creative souls. As you wander through its streets, you will find no shortage of quirky cafés, lively local pubs, independent galleries, and small venues with plenty of character.

Although many of its streets and buildings still have a slightly neglected, shabby feel, it does not take long to fall for the neighborhood’s cheeky, rebellious charm. Prague’s city center can sometimes feel overpriced and made for tourists, so if you want to escape that atmosphere and see a more authentic side of the city, Žižkov is hard to beat.

PLACES TO VISIT

VÍTKOV HILL AND THE NATIONAL MONUMENT

Take a brisk walk up to the top of Vítkov Hill and you will be rewarded with beautiful views across Prague. But the view is only part of the reason to go. Once you reach the summit, it is impossible to miss the giant bronze statue of a man on horseback.

The man is the legendary Jan Žižka, the Hussite general after whom Žižkov is named. The statue was built in honor of his victory over Emperor Sigismund’s forces in 1420. Although Žižka’s army was heavily outnumbered, his tactical skill and determination helped him and his men win the battle.

The statue is often described as one of the largest equestrian statues in the world, and it is seriously impressive when seen up close. Next to it stands the National Monument, where you can visit exhibitions, enjoy the panoramic viewpoint, or stop for a drink at the café. The viewpoint has an entrance fee of around 80 CZK and offers a great perspective over the city.

TACHOVSKÉ SQUARE

Tachovské Square is a small but important Žižkov crossroads, located below Vítkov Hill at the entrance to the pedestrian tunnel leading to Karlín. After a recent renovation, the square feels much more open and pleasant, with better space for walking, cycling, and sitting outside.

It is also a good place to stop for food or a drink. You will find several restaurants nearby, including U Slovanské lípy, a traditional Žižkov pub serving Czech cuisine, as well as burger place Philly and Co's and Planeta Žižkov, a casual local restaurant and bar right by the tunnel entrance.

From here, you can walk up to Vítkov Hill, continue through the tunnel to Karlín, or just sit for a while and enjoy another everyday corner of Žižkov. The area also reminds you of the neighborhood’s older history, when these hills were covered with gardens and vineyards long before Žižkov became the dense city district it is today.

ŽIŽKOV TV TOWER

The Žižkov TV Tower is one of Prague’s most unusual landmarks and can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. Standing 216 meters tall, it is the tallest building in Prague and the unmistakable symbol of the Žižkov skyline.

From the observation deck, 93 meters above the ground, you get a 360-degree view over the city, with Prague laid out beneath you in every direction. The tower also has a restaurant, so you can combine the views with a meal or a drink.

And in case you are wondering about the faceless babies crawling up and down the tower, they were added in 2000 by Czech artist David Černý — because apparently the Žižkov Tower was not strange-looking enough already. Love it or hate it, the tower has certainly made an impression: in 2009, it was even ranked the second ugliest building in the world in an online poll by VirtualTourist.

OLD AND NEW JEWISH CEMETERIES

Žižkov is home to two important Jewish cemeteries, both with a very different atmosphere and history.

The Old Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov, located in today’s Fibichova Street near the Žižkov TV Tower, was established in 1680 as a burial ground for plague victims from Prague’s Jewish community. Later, after burials at the famous Old Jewish Cemetery in Josefov came to an end in the late 18th century, the Žižkov cemetery became the main Jewish burial place in Prague. It remained in use until 1890, and around 40,000 people are buried here, including rabbis, scholars, industrialists, and other members of Prague’s Jewish community.

Today, only a small part of the original cemetery survives. The grounds once stretched across what is now Mahler Gardens, but the area was reduced over time and partly affected by the construction of the Žižkov TV Tower in the 1980s and early 1990s. The preserved section is now open to the public and offers a quiet, atmospheric glimpse into a much older layer of Žižkov’s history.

When the old cemetery became full, the New Jewish Cemetery opened nearby in 1890, close to today’s Želivského metro station. It is now the largest Jewish cemetery in the Czech Republic and is still in use today. Among its best-known graves is that of Franz Kafka, who is buried there together with his parents. The cemetery is also notable for its beautiful tombstones and memorials, many of them designed by important Czech architects and sculptors.

PARKS

Žižkov is more laid-back than the center of Prague, and one of the best things about the neighborhood is how much green space you can find here. It may not look like the leafiest part of the city at first glance, but once you start walking uphill, Žižkov opens up into parks, viewpoints, beer gardens, and quiet corners where locals come to relax.

One of the most popular local spots is Parukářka, a rugged hilltop park between Vítkov Hill and the Olšany cemeteries. It has great views over Prague, several playgrounds, space for picnics, and a very Žižkov-style pub and beer garden where you can grab a drink and sit outside when the weather is good. It is not as polished or touristy as some of Prague’s more famous parks, which is exactly why people like it. It feels local, relaxed, and a little rough around the edges.

Below the park is Bunkr Bezovka, a large underground shelter built during the Cold War. One of its entrances is close to the Parukářka pub, so the bunker is often connected with the park. Today, part of the complex is used for a Cold War exhibition, and there is also an 11-meter climbing wall built into the stairwell. It is one of those strange Žižkov details: you come for a beer and a sunset view, and suddenly you are standing next to a former nuclear shelter.

Near the Žižkov TV Tower, you will also find Mahlerovy sady, a small park surrounding the tower. It is not a big park, but it is a useful place to sit down, take a break, or look up at one of Prague’s strangest landmarks from close range. And if you do not mind stepping just outside Žižkov, Riegrovy sady in neighboring Vinohrady is also nearby, with open lawns, city views, and one of Prague’s classic beer garden atmospheres.

Together, these parks are a big part of what makes Žižkov so enjoyable. The neighborhood can be noisy, hilly, and scruffy, but you are never too far from a place to sit under a tree, watch the city from above, or drink a beer with a view.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Žižkov may not be the postcard-perfect Prague that most visitors come looking for, but that is exactly what makes it special. It is a neighborhood of steep streets, old pubs, strange landmarks, hidden history, green hills, and great views. It can feel rough around the edges, but it is also full of character, creativity, and everyday local life.

Whether you come for a walk up Vítkov Hill, a drink on Parukářka, the view from the TV Tower, or just to wander without a strict plan, Žižkov offers a side of Prague that feels real and lived-in. It is close to the city center, but the atmosphere is completely different — less polished, less predictable, and much more local.

After more than two decades here, we still think Žižkov is one of the best neighborhoods in Prague to explore. Come with comfortable shoes, an open mind, and maybe a thirst for a beer or two. Žižkov will take care of the rest.